Chain Link Fence Calculator
Posts, rail, mesh, and fittings for a chain link fence.
The run to be fenced, not counting gate openings.
10 ft is the common maximum; tighten to 8 on slopes or for taller fabric.
Where a run terminates, such as at a wall or a post with fabric on one side.
Where the fence changes direction.
Each gate adds two gate posts; buy hinge and latch hardware per gate.
You need
100 linear ft
4 ft tall mesh. Sold in rolls, commonly 50 ft.
- Line posts
- 9 posts
- Terminal posts
- 4 posts
- Top rail
- 100 linear ft
- Bottom tension wire
- 100 linear ft
- Tension bars
- 4 bars
- Tension bands
- 12 bands
- Rail ends and brace bands
- 4 of each
- Post caps
- 9 loop + 4 dome caps
- Tie wires
- 86 ties
Estimates only. Verify quantities before ordering.
How this is calculated
Line posts = length / spacing, minus 1 for a straight run. Terminal posts = ends + corners + 2 per gate. Top rail, fabric, and tension wire run the full length. Tension bars, rail ends, and brace bands follow the fabric ends (1 per end and gate post, 2 per corner); tension bands add height minus 1 at each of those ends. Caps: one loop cap per line post, one dome cap per terminal post.
Enter the fence length and height, then the number of ends, corners, and gates, and this calculator counts the whole chain link kit: line and terminal posts, top rail, mesh fabric, tension wire, and the tension bars, bands, caps, rail ends, and ties that tie it all together. The counts assume one continuous run; every corner and gate starts a new run, which is why you enter those separately.
Line posts carry the fabric between the strong points; terminal posts (ends, corners, and the pair on each side of a gate) are set in concrete and take all the tension. Most of the small hardware is counted off those terminal posts, so getting their count right matters more than the exact line-post spacing.
Chain link materials for common fences
Rows use 10 ft line-post spacing. The backyard row adds corners and a second gate. Each gate adds two terminal posts and needs its own hinge and latch kit.
| Fence | Line posts | Terminal posts | Top rail (ft) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 50 ft, 4 ft, 1 gate | 4 posts | 4 posts | 50 linear ft |
| 100 ft, 4 ft, 1 gate | 9 posts | 4 posts | 100 linear ft |
| 150 ft, 5 ft, 2 corners, 1 gate | 14 posts | 6 posts | 150 linear ft |
| Backyard, 200 ft, 6 ft, 4 corners, 2 gates | 19 posts | 8 posts | 200 linear ft |
| Dog run, 60 ft, 6 ft, 1 gate | 5 posts | 6 posts | 60 linear ft |
Fabric gauge, coating, and mesh size
Chain link fabric is specified by wire gauge, mesh opening, and coating. Lower gauge numbers are thicker wire: 11.5 gauge is typical residential, 9 gauge is the heavier commercial and kennel standard, and 6 gauge is industrial. For a backyard or pet fence, 11.5 or 9 gauge covers almost everything; pay for 9 gauge where a dog will test it. The common mesh opening is 2 inches; tighter 1-3/8 inch mesh is used where you want to keep small animals in or discourage climbing.
Galvanized (silver) is the cheapest and most common. Vinyl-coated fabric, usually black or green over galvanized wire, costs more but reads as far less industrial and tends to disappear against a yard, which is why it is popular for residential perimeters. The coating also adds corrosion protection. Whatever you choose, match the posts, rail, and fittings to the same finish so the fence looks like one system.
Gates and setting the terminals
Every gate opening is framed by two terminal-grade gate posts, and those posts carry the swinging weight, so they are set in the largest, deepest footings on the job. Size the opening to the gate: a single walk gate is usually 3 to 4 feet wide, a drive or double gate 10 to 12. Buy the gate as a pre-welded frame with its hinge and latch kit rather than counting that hardware piece by piece, since it varies by manufacturer.
Set and concrete all terminal posts first and let them cure before stretching anything. The entire fence pulls against these posts, and a terminal that moves even slightly lets the whole run go slack. Line posts go in next, aligned to a string between terminals, then the top rail, then the fabric, which is hung loose and pulled tight against the tension bars with a come-along before the ties go on.
Common questions
What is the difference between line posts and terminal posts?
Terminal posts are the end, corner, and gate posts: larger diameter, set deeper in concrete, and carrying all the fabric tension. Line posts are the lighter intermediate posts between them that just hold the fabric up. Buy them as different parts; a line post used as a terminal will lean once the fabric is stretched.
How far apart should chain link posts be?
Line posts go a maximum of 10 feet on center, and tightening to 8 feet is better on slopes, in wind, or with 6 foot and taller fabric. Terminal posts sit wherever the fence ends, turns a corner, or meets a gate, regardless of spacing.
How deep do chain link posts need to be set?
A common rule is one third of the above-ground height plus a few inches, so a 4 foot fence wants line posts about 24 to 30 inches deep and terminal posts deeper and in a wider footing. Set terminal posts in concrete without fail; line posts can be concreted or driven depending on soil. The concrete footing calculator sizes the holes.
What hardware holds the fabric to the posts?
At each terminal, a tension bar woven vertically through the fabric is clamped to the post with tension bands, which is how the fabric is pulled tight. Along the run, the fabric is tied to the top rail and line posts with aluminum tie wires. Rail ends and brace bands connect the top rail to each terminal post.
Do I need bottom tension wire?
It is strongly recommended. A tension wire (or a bottom rail) run along the base keeps the bottom of the fabric from being pushed out by dogs, kids, or debris. Without it the mesh bows outward at the bottom between posts, which both looks bad and lets animals under.